Wednesday 14 July 2010

24 June Khovsgol Nuur, stunning blue-shades

We wake up to the sound of heavy rain on the ger. Somebody comes and lights us a fire, it’s 9 am and we are stuck indoors, nice and cosy in bed. K gets geared up against the water and ventures out with as many layers of waterproof clothing as she has. The moment she comes back from the toilet stops raining. Breakfast in the house, fried egg and bread and jam. Small but nice, but plentiful free coffee.
Not sure how it all started but we find deciding whether to stay or leave because of my question “is it possible to do the three nights we have to do in the NP in three different locations?” to Chaga’s reply “everything is possible” which to me, it was just a question as the three of us had not discussed and decided so I wouldn’t think of imposing my way to the others but apparently it was taken literally and k and Chaga kind of thought we would be leaving. And also the fact the k wanted to ride a horse but there was this argument with the boss of the guesthouse, trying to agree on a price, accepting, refusing, arguing finally accepting and at the very end deciding against.
Chaga doesn't want to do much, i guess it's in his terms and conditions a couple of days rest, today being one. Nice big lunch and then he drives us to the port and to the top of the mountain. To our surprise, with the bluest of blues of the sky i have ever seen reflected on the lake's water amazing shades of blue stripe the lake, pale turquoise by the shore, darker and even darker and almost white at the farthest northern shore our eyes can reach between the pine branches framing the lake view. I feel overwhelmed, thankful, happy, excited and tens of other positive adjectives to be here. To see this. Amazed at how pristine and wild the earth can be. The remoteness of the feel of the place, and it's not even off the beaten track, takes me back to some film or documentary or to some picture I may have seen in the often-flicked-through books I've hold in my hands so many times. The light. The colours: green and blue prevailing. The lake and the sky. In such stunning location as this, the sacred ovoo couldn't be too far. The blue scarves flapping against the chilly winds, the blue sky and the blue lake as background. Pity about the empty vodka bottles, broken sunglasses and worn-out handbags offered for a good reincarnation, though! I'd spend hours just looking the changing lights on the water but the girls say it's time to explore the woods and off we go! and again, the ubiquitous little wildflowers everywhere, and the downward steep slope that we venture across down to the port following no path, but each other's steps. Marks of gers, tourist gers, log cabins, and the colour of it all.
Smoked fish, souvenirs made of animal bones and what looks like tusks, and felt. Not much array. No tourists around. Hardly anybody around, actually. The odd person. It kind of reminds me of American movies set by lakesides.

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